Studding must be 16” on center. Panels must hit 4 studs with 12 fasteners per panel penetrating 1” into the substrate. It is recommended to use a ½” support material over studding, then panels over the supports material with fasteners penetrating 1” into substrate.


Same procedures and recommendations as with wood studding using self-tapping screws penetrating 1” into substrate.

NOTE: IF STUDDING IS NOT 16” ON CENTER, A ½” SUPPORT material MUST be used over the studding, panels can then be applied like a solid wall, hitting studs whenever possible. Whenever plywood is used as a support material, plywood should be EXTERIOR GRADE.


BRICK: If brick and mortar joints are in good condition, SF-450 adhesive can be applied to the existing brick joints, panels can then be screwed into the mortar joints with tap con screws or equivalent penetrating 1” if possible. If brick and mortar joints are not in good shape, fir out with wood or metal strips.

CONCRETE BLOCK: If concrete block is painted, paint must be removed. Apply 3 vertical strips of SF-450 adhesive to the back of the panel, then secure panel with 9-12 screws or equal screwed into mortar joints of the block.

POURED CONCRETE: Same procedures and recommendations as with concrete block, securing panels with screws driven into concrete.

WOOD LAP SIDING: Most of the time, wood lap siding will have to be removed to give a smooth surface for the panels. Panels can then be applied with screws.

ASPHALT SHINGLES: Shingles must be removed, panels then applied accordingly.

ALUMINUM SIDING: Aluminum siding must be removed, panels then applied accordingly.

ASBESTOS SHINGLES:  If surface is good and flat, panels can be applied directly over the shingles with screws. If surface is not flat shingles must be removed, panels then applied accordingly.